Retsina started out life as the traditional wine of Athens. That was a long time ago. Two thousand years, in fact, and Greece has been exporting retsina since all that time ago. Way back in those days the Ancient Greeks knew that air was the main enemy of wine. They, therefore, used pine resin to seal the top of the amphorae in which the wine was stored and shipped. They even added it to the wine itself as the resin formed a protective film between it and the air. Such resin is still added to the grape must today. It is from the conifer pinus halepensis.

The reason why retsina became the traditional wine of Athens was that the vines of Attica (the region around Athens) were of the Savatiano variety which thrive in the region's hot, arid climate. In addition, the abundance of pine trees in Attica provided the necessary resin.

Originally, the retsina was stored and transported to the various tavernas in casks. Many, many years later as more and more people poured into Athens, things changed considerably. In the 1960s, many of Athen's tavernas, bulk wine shops and smart townhouses were demolished as rapid urbanisation took place. Delivery of retsina in casks came to an end, and bottled retsina took over. This bottled retsina now also became available outside Athens for the first time. It was cheap, and on remote islands it was often the only wine available. Consumption climbed into millions of bottles. Greek wine became synonymous with resinated wine around the world. This was the situation by the end of the 1970s.

Things have changed quite dramatically since then. The number vines in Attica have halved, and domestic consumption is in free fall. It is thought that construction of the new Athens airport at Spata, will encourage commercial development in that area that will reduce the number of vines even further and will speed up the decline of the wine. Retsina's value has become almost folkloric; more non-Greeks actually drink it than locals.

Nowadays retsina is much less heavily-resinated than it was in the recent past, although its, distinctive menthol-like flavour still cools the palate.

Cask-stored taverna retsina can be delicious, but inappropriate storage conditions, especially in the summer months can result in the oxidation, and ruination of the wine. To this end it may be wiser to order bottled retsina in a taverna. Make sure it is corked when it comes to the table. Fast turnover of bottled retsina in resort tavernas guarantees a fresh taste. And, fortunately, prices still remain extremely reasonable.

Some Recommended Retsinas

Boutaris: Fruity and lightly-resinated.

C.A.I.R.: Low acidity. Light and refreshing with a hint of "sweetness"

Cambas: Medium pungency and a good Savatiano finish.

Gaia: A much talked-about retsina. Made with 100% Roditis grapes. Pale. Fruity nose. Soft palate. Regarded as the most refined bottled retsina on the market.

Kourtakis: The market leader producing one of the best-known retsinas. Medium to strong pungency.

Liokri: Comes in a 500ml crown-top bottle. Medium pungency. Hint of menthol. Very refreshing. A favourite of mine.

Malamatinas: Popular. From the Thessaloniki area. Pungent. Very easy on the palate. Probably my favourite retsina.

Tsantalis: Medium-pungent. Popular export retsina.

Retsina and mezé....bliss !